Seoul, South Korea’s largest city and capital, has a reputation for being one of the world’s top food destinations. Its culinary culture has evolved over centuries as a result of many different historical, social and political changes. With complex flavors and unique textures, food is one of many reasons why millions flock to South Korea each year. Meals are known for being social events with plenty of shared dishes and celebratory soju toasts. Family and friends get together to enjoy flavor-packed platefuls of barbecued meats, fermented vegetables and sauces, steamed rice and spicy noodles. Each meal is an adventure for the five senses. Joe McPherson, President of ZenKimchi International, a Seoul-based food tour company, shares how to navigate Seoul’s food scene. He has been leading food tours in Seoul since 2012. Check out his tips and recommendations for how to order Korean Barbecue in Seoul and more!

Joe McPherson

How do you order Korean barbecue in Seoul?

In Korea, most good restaurants specialize in only one type of meat. The best in very few cuts. You can order the meat according to how many people are at your table. If there are four people, you order four portions. You can always order more if you run out.

For me, I prefer certain cuts of pork. My favorite is jowl meat. I don’t like marinated meats, like galbi, because the marinade gets in the way and burns easily on the grill. Besides, the lower quality meats are the marinated ones.

Mapo Jeong Daepo is my go-to Korean barbecue restaurant. If I want something on the higher end, I go to Congdu. It’s more advanced Korean food, though. You should already be familiar with its flavors before going, or it will fly right over your head.

Mapo Jeong Daepo, photo by Joe McPherson

What are the most common flavors found in Korean cuisine?

Korean food’s strength is in fermentation. Everyone knows kimchi, but the sauces, like gochujang, deonjang and fermented soy sauce, play a large part. I also think the nuttiness of sesame oil and the bright licorice aroma of perilla leaves dot the edges of the cuisine.

What are your favorite local dishes?

My favorite side dish is a leaf from Ullengdo Island called Myeongi Namul (Siberian Onion). It’s pickled in sweet soy sauce and is such a great wrap for anything. I also love spicy marinated crabs, and any time oysters are at the table, I dive for them. In Korea, side dishes aren’t ordered. They just come with the meal. You can always ask for more when one has run out.

Can you recommend one dish that every traveler should try?

One dish that I would recommend is Dalkgalbi, which literally means “chicken ribs,” but that’s a tongue-in-cheek moniker. Local expats and Koreans love this dish, but it is practically unknown outside of Korea. It is made with spicy marinated boneless chunks of chicken thighs that are grilled over charcoal or stir-fried with hearty root vegetables. This dish is such a treat.

What is the proper way to drink soju?

The first rule for drinking soju: never pour for yourself. You should hold the glass with two hands or with your right hand with your left hand supporting it (like you’re holding back a loose sleeve) while someone pours for you. Everyone toasts after each pour. If someone is much older or higher in hierarchy at the table, face away from them when you drink. Rule number two: never let anyone’s glass go empty, but this is where it gets tricky. Rule number three: you can only pour into an empty glass. So, if a round is being poured around the table, you need to empty your glass before accepting more. Korean drinking etiquette is designed to get you drunk quickly. And, everyone watches out for each other.

Do you have a favorite brand of soju?

I’m not a fan of the common green bottle table soju. There’s a growing movement to revive traditionally distilled soju that had been lost during the colonial period (1905–1945). My favorite, when I can get my hands on it, is Pungjeong Sagye.  Its character comes from nuruk, a wild yeast starter. And, even though it packs a punch with its high alcohol content, it drinks smooth with lots of subtle character.

Are there any social errors to avoid when dining out?

Most social errors are easily forgiven. We’re quite laid back here. It does gross people out when one blows their nose at the table. If you need to do so, walk away from the table and do it outside. We share almost everything but our rice bowls, so don’t freak out over that.

What are some of your favorite food markets in Seoul?

I love outdoor markets. I recommend getting away from the ones in the tour guides. Go to markets in more blue-collar parts of the city and have fun. Also, I love Noryangjin Fish Market and Majang Meat Market.

Joe’s daughter eating DalkGalbi, photo by Joe McPherson

What is your favorite local restaurant?

My favorite all-time Korean restaurant is San Maul Boribap. It is located just outside Seoul in the southern suburb of Anyang. It’s a place at the foot of Gwanaksan Mountain that originally catered to hikers. It’s rustic honest Korean food at its best.

What might surprise travelers about the Seoul’s food culture?

It may surprise people how much everything is shared. In restaurants, servers don’t voluntarily come to your table. You have to ring a bell or yell for them. Yelling to call your server over goes against a lot of westerners’ upbringings. The other hard thing to get used to is the metal chopsticks. They can be heavier and more slippery than most diners are accustomed to.

Have you noticed any recent food trends?

Right now, we’re heading into the tail end of the Malatang trend. It’s a Chinese dish of skewers soaking in a broth loaded with Sichuan peppers. My favorite Korean trend that’s growing is Nureungji Tongdalk, whole chickens spit roasted over wood. Then they’re butterflied and served on an iron skillet of sizzling crispy rice. It tastes like Thanksgiving. Every time I take anyone out for it, they go at it like velociraptors.

Which of your street food tours would you recommend to first-time visitors?

I recommend the Ultimate Korean BBQ Night Out. Guests get a basic idea of how to order and eat in typical Korean restaurants. At our second stop, they get a crash course in traditional Korean liquor. This helps them with the basics, so they can explore on their own. Especially if they’ve tried something that surprised them and want to get more. All our guides are well versed in the food scene and heartily give recommendations.

Thank you, Joe!

Website: Korea Food Tours
Email: [email protected]

If you enjoyed How To Order Korean Barbecue in Seoul, check out other food-inspired adventures!