“Don’t you just love those long rainy afternoons in New Orleans when an hour isn’t just an hour – but a little piece of eternity dropped into your hands – and who knows what to do with it?” – Tennessee Williams, A Streetcar Named Desire
The sights, sounds and smells of New Orleans are like nothing else in the world. This city offers visitors a unique experience with its culture and heritage representing a mix of French, Spanish, African, American and Caribbean influences. Located in the southeastern state of Louisiana along the Mississippi River, New Orleans was founded in 1718 by French colonists, and it did not become part of the United States until 1803.
In 2005, New Orleans and its people experienced devastating losses, particularly in the Lower Ninth Ward, due to the effects of Hurricane Katrina. Many of the city’s critical levees and flood walls failed or sustained damage leaving the city and its suburbs unprotected against the water. Communities continue to demonstrate their endurance and strength more than ten years after the storm first made landfall.
This sense of community resilience can be felt throughout the city. The French Quarter, or Vieux Carré, is one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods. Bourbon and Royal Streets are particularly charming with old buildings, art galleries and antique stores. With cast iron balconies and walled courtyards, this district offers a unique mix of French, Spanish, Creole and American architectural influences.
The French Quarter also has a French Market and plenty of bars and restaurants serving tasty regional cuisines. Cajun and Creole food is known for being rich in flavor with notes of paprika, thyme and filé (ground sassafras), among others. Local favorites include alligator, hushpuppies, boiled crawfish, fried oyster po’ boy, étouffée and jambalaya.
New Orleans is also known for being the birthplace of jazz music. Often referred to as “America’s only original art form,” jazz music can be heard throughout the streets of New Orleans, especially in neighborhoods like French Quarter, Marigny and Tremé. Many of the world’s leading jazz musicians have roots in New Orleans, including Louis Armstrong, Jelly Roll Morton and Sidney Bechet. From traditional jazz to acid jazz, there is something for everyone.
New Orleans can feel a bit spooky at times. Local folklore dating back centuries recounts stories of vampires, voodoo rituals and even exorcisms. Ghost-themed city tours are available in abundance throughout the city, and it is common for visitors to be confronted with tales from the dark side shortly after arrival. One of the most famous ghost stories is of Marie Laveau, known as the Voodoo queen of New Orleans. It is said that her spirit is haunting the St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. True or not, imaginations can run wild while visiting the city’s historic cemeteries. With above ground tombs and ornate mausoleums, they bear a striking resemblance to the graveyards found in 18th century Paris.
New Orleans, often referred to as the Big Easy, is especially lively during carnival season with annual festivities beginning in January and culminating on Fat Tuesday, or Mardi Gras, the day before Ash Wednesday. During the weeks leading up to Mardi Gras, the city lets loose with around-the-clock parties and celebrations. Carnival reaches its climax during the final day’s notorious Rex Parade. This annual event attracts large crowds of people wearing elaborate costumes and beaded necklaces.
New Orleans offers visitors rich history, welcoming people, delicious food, beautiful architecture and world-class jazz music. It is easy to see why millions of visitors flock to this southern American city every year.
How to Spend 48 Hours in New Orleans
Day One
Morning
There is no better way to start 48 hours in New Orleans than with a stop at Café du Monde. Established in 1862, this café specializes in beignets, French-style doughnuts covered in powered sugar. Café du Monde is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week (except Christmas Day), which is pretty impressive given its popularity and location in the French Quarter.
After feasting on sugary treats, walk over to St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square. Known as the heart of old New Orleans, this cathedral was dedicated to Saint Louis, or King Louis IX of France. The people of New Orleans have worshipped in churches on this site for almost 300 hundred years. Today, the Cathedral is open daily from 8:30 am until 4:00 pm with Daily Mass held at 12:05pm. Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for a $1.00 donation. When available, visitors can get impromptu tours from volunteer docents.
Afternoon
Spend some time exploring the New Orleans African American Museum of Art, History and Culture (NOAAM), a site listed on the Louisiana African American Heritage Trail. NOAAM was founded in 1996 with the support from the City of New Orleans. Located in Tremé, not far from the French Quarter, the museum’s mission is to preserve and promote African-Americans’ contributions to New Orleans during emancipation, Reconstruction and contemporary times. The property includes seven historical structures located on the grounds of a former plantation. Check out the Meilleur-Goldthwaire House, a premier example of Creole architeture built in 1828. NOAAM offers special exhibitions and educational programs throughout the year. The neighboring Backstreet Cultural Museum and Tremé’s Petit Jazz Museum are also worth visits.
Evening
Start the evening with dinner at one of the French Quarter’s most celebrated restaurants. Antoine’s, Arnaud’s, Galatoire’s and Brennan’s are excellent options for combining old school fine-dining service with upscale French-Creole cuisine. Reservations are recommended and dress codes are enforced.
After dinner, enjoy some traditional New Orleans Jazz at the world-famous Preservation Hall. This venue has been entertaining eager crowds since 1961. Located in the French Quarter on St. Peter Street, Preservation Hall has given the stage to some of the most talented jazz musicians in the world. Its mission is to protect the rich cultural traditions that support the past and future of jazz music. It is advised to purchase tickets in advance.
After the show, check out the Carousel Bar & Lounge in the Hotel Monteleone, which includes a revolving bar. With 25 seats, the bar completes a rotation every 15 minutes while guests are served specialty cocktails from underneath a colorful marque. Carousel Bar has been in operation since 1949. According to Hotel Monteleone, authors like Ernest Hemingway and William Faulkner have written about this iconic bar, and playwright Tennessee Williams and author Truman Capote are said to have been guests.
After a spin at the Carousel Bar, continue to explore nightlife in the French Quarter. The city’s non-existent open container laws allow revelers to walk the streets with to-go cups. Head over to Pat O’Brien’s for a taste of the city’s most beloved cocktail called the Hurricane. This bright red drink is made using rum, grenadine, lime juice, orange juice, passion fruit juice and simple syrup. According to Pat O’Brien’s, the bar ran as a speakeasy until the repeal of Prohibition when it officially opened in 1933. This well-known spot offers plenty of entertainment with two baby grand pianos perfect for dueling entertainment. Shows typically run Monday through Thursday from 6 pm until 2 am and Friday through Sunday from 2 pm until 4 am.
Day Two
Morning
Begin the second part of 48 hours in New Orleans with a ride on the historic St. Charles Streetcar, which runs through the Garden District, a neighborhood known for its oak-lined streets, grand mansions and well-kept gardens. Hop off near Lafayette Cemetery #1 to explore an historic cemetery that includes over 1,000 tombs situated within a single block. Founded in 1833, it is one of the city’s first planned cemeteries. Is also appeared in films, such as Neil Jordan’s Interview with the Vampire (1994) and Tony Scott’s Déjà Vu (2006).
After the cemetery, cross the street for the perfect midweek lunch or weekend brunch. Commander’s Palace has been a New Orleans’ landmark since 1893. The kitchen is known for mixing modern cooking techniques with Haute Creole cuisine. Set in a large neighborhood mansion, the dining space exudes a quirky sense of Louisiana charm. Winner of seven James Beard Foundation Awards, Commander’s Palace serves up local favorites like gumbo, turtle soup, Andouille spiced gulf shrimp and bread pudding soufflé. Advance reservations are advised and a dress code of business attire is required. And, don’t miss the 25 cent martini lunch (restrictions apply).
Afternoon
After lunch, head over to the National World War II Museum located in the Central Business District. As told from the American perspective, this museum features an immersive exhibition dedicated to telling the story of World War II. The collection pays special attention the D-Day invasion in Normandy. The six-acre campus was designated by Congress as the official WWII Museum of the United States. In addition to the exhibits, the museum offers a period dinner theater and restaurants.
Evening
Head back to the French Quarter for a ride on the city’s only operating steamboat, the Natchez. Passengers can enjoy a relaxing ride up the Mississippi River with dinner, jazz, cocktails and sunset views. The Natchez resembles the Hudson, a paddle steamer in operation from 1886 to 1905. The current vessel, Natchez IX, is the ninth steamboat to bear the name. Her copper and steel steam whistle is a treasured antique, and her 32-note steam calliope was modeled after examples from the Gilded Age.
After dinner, venture downriver to the Faubourg Marigny neighborhood for live music and drinks on Frenchman Street. This is the perfect way to finish off 48 hours in News Orleans. This vibrant part of the city is known for its bars, restaurants, shops and music venues. Popular clubs like Blue Nile, the Spotted Cat and Snug Harbor offer live bands and musical performances throughout the week.
Don’t miss the Palace Market Frenchmen for locally sourced handmade art and crafts. This open air market hosts a rotating collection of painters, jewelers, sculptors and crafters. Open late seven days a week, visitors are sure to find the perfect souvenir.
Where should I stay in New Orleans?
The Ritz-Carlton
Within New Orleans’ French Quarter on Canal Street, this four-star hotel pays tribute to the city through its service, rooms, décor and cuisine. Housed in the historic Beaux Arts Maison Blanche building from 1908, the hotel features spa treatments, fine dining and live jazz in the evenings (Wednesday through Saturday). Book Now
Windsor Court Hotel
This hotel combines luxury with comfort. Its 316 guest rooms and suites recently went through a $15 million renovation. For the ultimate stay, book a private balcony room with views of the Mississippi River or city skyline. Onsite amenities include fine dining featuring afternoon tea and weekend brunch, a cocktail lounge featuring live jazz, a 65-foot saltwater pool with a cabana-style bar and a luxury spa. Book Now
The Roosevelt, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel
This luxury hotel is located just off Canal Street near the French Quarter. Guests experience a winning combination of excellent service and historic settings. This luxury hotel offers guests fine dining and a luxury spa. Book Now
*Cover photo courtesy of Visit New Orleans; photo by Jeff Anding
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